Northeast Buttress of Angels Landing IV 5.10+, Zion NP

Fun route with a great position.  Had wanted to do this one for awhile and finally got around to it.  Luckily Evan Stevens willingly rope gunned me up it so I could shoot some pics of Jasmin Caton and Kate

A Zion classic just as the new Supertopo guide book says.  Be warned though this isn’t a Zion classic in the Moonlight way.  It’s a zion classic in the alpine sort of way.  Expect some loose rock and a couple run-out sections but nothing to crazy.

The Northeast Buttress is the sun/shade line on the sunlit peak on the right

The Northeast Buttress is the sun/shade line on the sunlit peak on the right

The first few pitches are relatively straight forward.  We used the first two recommended belays and then opted for a full 60m pitch for the third pitch.  In retrospect we should of just belayed at the recommend spot.  The belay for the 4th pitch is two bolts which isn’t noted on the topo.

Jasmin Caton on the 2nd pitch

Jasmin Caton on the 2nd pitch

The 5th pitch is accurately described and pretty straight forward given the guide book beta.  There is a fixed pin and bolt that protects the crux of pitch 5, a #5 is also needed on this pitch.  Really cool pitch!  The belay ends on a huge ledge with great views.  The belay takes smaller cams but can be backed up 30ft to the left by 5 BOLTS!

Kate Rutherford on the 5th pitch 5.10+ crux

Kate Rutherford on the 5th pitch 5.10+ crux

We then did one LONG 60+ meter pitch to a ledge just below what is marked as the top of pitch 8 on the topo.  The belay was a good bush and #4 and #5 camalot, other options probably exist as well.  We then skirted right into a 4th class gully that got progressively easier.

Jasmin on the varied 6th pitch

Jasmin on the varied 6th pitch

We only brought one #4 and thought this was enough.  The topo calls for 2.  A #5 is pretty mandatory and got used numerous times on the route.

Overall a recommend route that is worth doing!