The Washington Route, A new route on Fitzroy
It’s been a week now since Kate and I were standing on top of the Fitz and I can finally say we’ve elevated our body temperature back to normal. Though it took flying to the big island of Hawaii to do it. Nearly two weeks ago now the weather forecast started to show a possible [...]
Chiaro de Luna, St. Exupery
After a few weeks of poor weather and lots of waiting a decent weather forecast appeared on the charts. Kate showed up in early January and hadn’t yet climbed anything, so needless to say her motivation was high. Though the forecast was for cold weather we still had hoped to go do some rock climbing [...]
The west ridge of Aguja Innominata,
A few days after our successful climb of Mermoz the weather got good again. This time we were looking for something a bit less alpine and a bit more FUN. This is my 5th season here and unbelievably I had never made it back into the Torre valley. So without to much discussion that where we [...]
Jardines Japoneses, a new route on Mermoz
After two tries this season and an attempt two years ago, we completed a new route on the East face of Mermoz. We left camp at 1:30 or so on the morning of the 28th making our way to the base of Mermoz just as it was getting light. I took the first block leading [...]
Another season and more suffering on the way
I recently arrived in Patagonia for another season of climbing and suffering. This is my 5th time coming here to climb and sadly I’ve had shit luck with the weather down here every time. So far this year has been no different. I’m here climbing with Jens Holsten, a good friend and great climber from [...]
Devils Thumb Gallery
Well I’ve officially procrastinated so much on writing a full report from my trip to the Devils Thumb with Colin Haley that I’m giving up on writing it. So instead here is a link to Colin’s trip report and a gallery of my images. (Maybe I’ll find some free time in the next few [...]
Off to the Devils Thumb!
Colin Haley and I boarded a plane much to early this morning and set off on hopefully what will be a great trip to the rarely visited Stikine Icecap in Southeastern Alaska. Our main objective will be a climb on the Devils Thumb, which is most famous for it’s unclimbed Northwest face. Thankfully we [...]
Freerider: Kate and Madaleine
THE GIRLS CRUSHED ANOTHER HUGE ROCK!!! On June 21st Kate and Madaleine started up El cap with their eyes set on making a free ascent of the mega-classic Freerider. This is no easy task. El cap has probably been free climbed by less that 100 people and only by 3 American females (Lynn Hill, Beth [...]
Cover!
I was surprised to say the least when I heard from the editors at Patagonia that they had selected a photo of mine for the cover. I’d almost gotten the cover a couple other times but at the final creative meetings it had always been changed, so I kinda figured the same might happen with [...]
