Tag Archives: kate rutherford

#6 Innominata

#6 out of 7 and only one more left on my goal of climbing new routes on all of the major summits of the Fitzroy skyline!

After an amazing streak of good weather things returned to a slightly more regular (not that there is regular pattern) for the later part of January and into early February.  As mine and Kate’s trip was nearing its end I had all but given up on getting another route done this season.  Thankfully just a few days before our planned departure another good little weather window appeared.  After nearly 3 straight weeks of bad weathered I figured the mountains were going to be pretty plastered with new snow but for some reason they turned out to be fairly free of snow and ice.

When up on the South Face of Poincenot in early December I had plenty of time to look directly south on the north face of Innominata (also know as Aguja Rafael Juarez).  Before our ascent there were only two routes (and a short variation) up the north face proper.  The face is quite narrow but it appeared there would be room for another route shooting straight up the middle, well thats at least what I hoped.

 

We left Niponino camp sometime just before dawn (i’m sure it wasn’t to early because getting up isn’t something we are good at).  The approach took a casual 3.5hrs to base, with  a little bit of cramponning and post-holing required, but nothing to unpleasant.  I’ve gave Kate the fist block knowing that it would keep her a bit warmer, and well, I of course ended up getting pretty cold.  Our first few pitches followed Jon Walsh’s variation to Artebelleza, called Como No! The climbing was quite enjoyable and fairly straightforward.  And YES, the rock was actually really good.  After dealing with some shitty rock on my last two routes I wasn’t in the mood to climb any more choss.

Kate made quick work of the Como No pitches and took us to a nice ledge underneath the splitter crack the went up the steep headwall.  I wish I could say I then started to dispatch of the headwall cracks with speed and grace, but no, that is not the case.  I was feeling a lot less than great.  Maybe it was the lack of any actual crack climbing in the last few months, or maybe it was just me being lame.  Anyhow I still managed to keep the rope moving upwards though it was with a fair bit of hanging on gear.

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Double Cover Month

Pretty stoked to have managed to get not only one but two covers this month! Both images have some pretty classic stories behind them as well.

The shot of Cerro Torre, in Patagonia was taken last year while hiking out after climbing St. Exupery with Kate. We briefly stopped on the hike to have a look at Cerro Torre as it was getting engulfed by a pretty serious storm. I had with me my Panasonic GF1 which is a great camera but I only had my fixed 14mm lens on it, which was to wide of an angle for the shot. So I asked Kate if I could borrow her Canon S90 point and shoot which had a decent zoom on it. Thankfully she said yes! I snapped off 3 pics and kept walking not really thinking they were anything special. Turns out I got one decent shot.

 

Patagonia's 2012 Mountain Catalog

Patagonia's 2012 Mountain Catalog

 

Nearing the end of our month long climbing trip to Slovenia and Croatia, Brittany Griffith, Kate and I decided to check out this amazing cliff just outside the mouth of Paklenica. The climbing was great though we were all extremely tired after climbing for to many days in a row. We had already packed our bags up and were about ready to head down the trail when some epic light started to pop out behind some clouds. I pleaded with the girls to unpack their bags and do one more pitch for me. They weren’t exactly enthusiastic, but thankfully I managed to persuade them. Just so happens this was the last route I shot and one of the last frames of the trip. I owe the ladies for this one.

Patagonia's Euro 2012 Spring/Summer Catalog

Patagonia's Euro 2012 Spring/Summer Catalog

Paklineca, Croaita

The Limestone Walls of Paklenica

I just got back from an amazing month long trip to Slovenia and Croatia. Kate and I spent the first couple weeks of the trip getting familiar with the steep limestone of Misja Pec in southern Slovenia and then headed to Paklineca in Croatia for the second half of the trip. Brittany Griffith joined us for the second half which really helped to keep the stoke high (and made taking photos easier).

I think I’m still a bit pumped from all the steep rock over there!

Here are few of my favs:

more after the break….